I arrived in Spain on Sunday, and after getting to Salamanca I started my whirlwind of a trip. Salamanca was a Roman outpost on the trail from the silver mines in the north, but it is most famous for its university which was built in 1218. Since then it has been known as the university town. Almost all of the famous Spanish authors (at least the ones I know and love) studied here, from Cervantes to Unamuno. Now it houses hundreds of language institutes beside the programs from the University itself. As a University town there is a bar for every 200 inhabitants, and a very active night life. That’s not just for students- old and young go out in the evening to pass the evening in plazas and parks all over town.
My study program is through a language institute, so I study language with other kids from the States, Serbia, Switzerland, and France. We have a grammar class which usually turns into a conversation class learning things about culture, politics, debating things like economic systems and healthcare. In spanish. It’s a lot more fun than I imagined, since I’m not much of a debater. My second course is literature. All the other students are taking a culture or commercial spanish class, so I take my text and a two-volume dictionary into some upper classrooms. I’m working my way through the epic spanish poem El Cid, and I am loving it. If anything, the fact that I actually have the opportunity to just read the works that I’ve experienced in classes, but never been able to fully enjoy. I also take my time in my celda to write and to read other random bits like a short biography of Miguel de Unamuno and ‘sayings for the student’, an old book of wisdom for students of the university.
My first task is to learn better Spanish, which I get through the school. My second is to get to know the Spanish people. It’s proved more difficult than I ever could imagine, since I’m surrounded by foreign students every day at home and at school. So one day I was wandering through a park and there were a bunch of old men playing yard games. One, la petanca, was a type of lawn bowling played with fist-sized metal balls they would roll down a dirt patch to reach a little marker. It was fascinating seeing the expressions, the players and bystanders, these old chaps heckling each other and arguing over every little thing. I am a bit obvious, as you might imagine. I’ve let my hair grow and I have my handlebar moustache back accompanied by a beard. (I look very spanish, just missed a couple centuries :) ) but they paid me a huge compliment by thinking I was a journalist from northern Spain taking pictures for a story. One of them took me over to another playing field where they were playing el calvo. They each had a steel brick about 8 inches long, carved down and curved. They would take a running start and heave the thing towards a wooden L-shaped hook laid out in the sand with one part sticking up. Their brick would hit that part, and sent the hook flying into the air with a load of sand, sending out a metallic THWACK. It was a thrill. Hopefully I’ll be able to have a bit more of a native experience while I’m here.
My third task is to take advantage of the historic and cultural wealth held in this little town that calls itself Roma, la pequeña, or little Rome because of the number of monuments. I went to see a live production of Molina’s Burlador de Sevilla. I won’t go into it, but for those of you that saw me doing spanish theatre, this was considerably different. I’ve also been able to see a stunning flamenco performance. I haven’t actually gone to any museums here yet. Its only been a week, and I’ve spent it going around trying to get a feel for the city and exploring its boundaries and alleyways. It’s actually served me rather well, and when I randomly met a group of professors and grad students from BYU I was able to show them around and share what knowledge I had gleaned from my wanderings.
This weekend I had the enormous opportunity to go to Lisbon. My two professors Dale Pratt and Valerie Hegstrom, whom I consider highly responsible for getting me to Spain, and I also consider to be my mentors and friends, have been living in Lisbon for the past three months working on various research endeavors. So I took a long weekend to visit them and to get to know Portugal. It’s kind of the Canada of the Iberian peninsula- its really, really cool, but kind of forgotten. Taking the train through northern Portugal was delightful with amazing pastoral scenes, and the centuries of history tracing the landscape. Lisbon is a beautiful city which, in being somewhat forgotten by the world, has a very nice, clean atmosphere. I cannot detail all that I did. I mean, I saw a castle, monasteries, cathedrals, museums, churches, city streets, plazas, etc, etc. All in a couple days. I’m surprised at how much we got done, and couldn’t have asked for more. In the end I learned tons about Portuguese history, and opened a little place in my heart for this little country on the edge of a peninsula, inseparable from the sea.